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Scott's Painting Plus Blogs
|Posted on January 15, 2015 at 11:33 AM||comments (22560)|
5 Tips for the DIY Painter
Let's say you want to paint a bedroom but can't afford to hire a professional painting contractor. Below, I will list some tips and advice that will help you get professional results without a pro's expertise level.
1. Products and Supplies
I have been a painting contractor for over 16 years and have used a lot of different paints and primers. I would recommend using either Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams products. Both suppliers have a variety of paints and primers ranging from $20 a gallon to roughly $60 a gallon. I usually go with a mid range priced paint ($40 a gallon).
When buying the applicators (brushes, roller covers), don't just go after the cheapest products. When you are painting and see hairs on the wall from the brush, you would have wished you went with a better brush. I recommend Wooster brushes and roller covers.
Before using the brush, make sure you wet it with water and then spin it out to remove most of the water. This helps loosen up the brush.
Before using the roller cover, always wash the cover with water to remove any hairs. When finished, you can either use a spinner (sold at your local paint store) to remove the water, or you can put it on the roller cage and spin it by hand.
2. Know the Sheen
This is a common mistake I see. If you are painting bathroom, kitchen, or mudroom walls (a room with running water) you should use a paint that is rated for water and is mildew resistant. For example, most flat paints are not rated for water. I normally use an eggshell paint for the walls in these rooms.
Here is a list of the sheens starting with the dullest. (flat, matte, satin, eggshell, semi gloss, high gloss).
In my years of painting, I have seen rooms with high gloss ceilings, flat paint on the trim, and everything in between.
I recommend using semi gloss on the trim (baseboards, windows/frames, doors/frames, etc.), flat paint on the ceilings, and then the walls would depend on which room it is.
If you have kids like I do, they like to put there hands on the walls, so I use a sheen that is washable.
If you have any questions about which sheen to use, leave a comment at the bottom of the page and I would be happy to answer your questions.
3. All in the Prep
To achieve the best painting results it is all in the prep work.
This is the most important part of any painting job.
I like to start with patching. I always put a fan on to speed up the drying process. When the patches are dry DO NOT FORGET TO SAND THE PATCHES FLUSH TO THE WALL. You may need to patch some areas twice if the holes were deep. While the patches are drying, I will go around and sand the trim with 120 grit sandpaper. This will help with the new paint adhering to the old paint. If the old paint is an oil based paint, I strongly recommend priming the trim before using a latex based paint. After sanding the trim I will caulk areas as needed. Next step would be to vacuum any dust from sanding and then spot priming just the patches. If you don't prime the patches, when you are finished painting, you will notice where you patched. This is called flashing. To eliminate just prime those areas. If you don't have primer, you can always use the wall paint or the ceiling paint. For example, if you are painting 2 coats on the walls, the patches on the walls will have 3 coats on them when you are done painting. This too will eliminate flashing.
Now you are ready to start painting.
4. Order of Painting
I always do all the prep for all surfaces first. When I am ready to start painting, I cut and roll the ceiling first. Don't worry if you get ceiling paint on the walls. While the ceiling is drying, I will paint the standing trim. Standing trim would be your windows, doors, and frames. I always leave the baseboards for last. Next, I will paint the walls. Don't worry if you get wall paint on the baseboards. And finally, I paint the baseboards.
I find this order to be the most time efficient and will product the best results. To see photos of my work you can go to my website at www.scottspaintingplus.com.
5. Always Keep a Wet Edge
Whether you are painting trim, ceilings, or walls you must always keep a wet edge. If you are painting a ceiling, first brush the perimeter and when you are ready to start rolling, start in a corner and work from that corner to the closest corner on the other side of the room. Try to work in sections of about 4 feet wide always keeping a wet edge.
When painting a door, start at the top and work your way down always keeping a wet edge.
When painting the walls, cut in one wall at a time and then roll that wall. Start on the right side of the wall and roll from the top to the bottom in 4 feet sections always keeping a wet edge.
Not only will this product the best results but if you don't keep a wet edge, the paint will start to dry and you will get lap marks.
Thanks for reading and be sure to comment if you have any questions. Stay tuned for my next blog on "Important Things to Avoid While Painting".
|Posted on January 21, 2014 at 6:40 PM||comments (1312)|
Have you ever heard the saying, "Painting is all in the prep work?"
If you haven't, the saying is true. Along with the prep, there are other things that you need to know if you want a professional looking paint job, but can't afford to hire a pro.
My first recommendation would be to use good products. You will be saving money by doing the work yourself, so you can spend money on quality products. I wouldn't go to a box store and spend $10 to $20 on a gallon of paint. I always use Benjamin Moore Paints and Primers but Sherwin Williams has quality paints and primers also. Spending $30 a gallon at either one of these stores will get you a decent paint. If you are unsure which products you need, just ask the associate at your local store and they will help you.
Now to the set up of the room. Take all of the pictures off of the wall, window coverings down, and move the big furniture to the middle of the room. Anything that you can move to a different area to give you more room to work will be helpful.
Next, remove all face plates from the outlets and light switches, putting the screws back in so you don't lose them, and put the face plates under a piece of furniture in the middle of the room. Same thing goes if there are heat registers in the ceiling or walls. Remove them, replacing the screws, and putting them under a piece of furniture. If the registers are already painted, you may want to replace them or repaint them.
Now you can use painter's plastic and cover all of the furniture. You can use blue tape to tape the plastic to the furniture. When that is complete, you can lay out drop cloths, making sure all of the floors are covered.
Now that the set up is complete, I am going to give you a step by step list of the prepping process. Some painters may do things in a different order but this is the way I do it:
1. With a flood light, walk around the room and look for nail pops. If you see any, hammer them back in and patch with joint compound. Depending on how deep the hole is, you may need to patch them a second time because joint compound shrinks as it dries. While you have the joint compound out, look for any imperfections on the ceiling, walls, and trim that need to be patched. When I finish patching the ceiling, I will turn a fan on to speed up the dry time.
2. After patching, you can go around with a piece of 120 grit sandpaper and sand all of the woodwork that is getting painted. As you finish each door, window, etc., make sure you dust it off with a duster (I just use an old paint brush as my duster), and caulk areas as needed. Make sure to use a caulk that is paintable.
3. While the patches and caulk are drying, you can go around and remove the hardware off of the trim (door knobs, brackets on windows, door stops, etc.).
4. If there are any stains, make sure you prime these areas. I carry a spray can of oil primer with me for these stains.
5. By now the patches should be ready to sand. Make sure you sand the patches flush with the surface and dust after sanding.
6. You are now ready to start priming the patches. Using a 9 inch roller, roll primer over all of your patches to avoid flashing.
7. When the primer is dry, start cutting in the ceiling with your ceiling paint. You can bring the ceiling paint down onto the wall a little bit so you should be able to cut in the ceiling rather quickly. Now you can roll the ceiling using a 9 inch roller (1/2 inch nap roller). If there is a window in the room, make sure the direction you roll is parallel to the window. Start in one corner and always keep a wet edge. When you finish the ceiling you can put a fan on again to speed up the drying time.
8. After the ceiling, I always paint the standing woodwork (windows, doors, etc.). As you paint the returns on the windows and doors, you can bring the trim paint onto the wall a little bit. I will paint all the trim except for the baseboards.
9. When you are finished the standing trim, you are ready to start painting the walls. Since most of the time, it will take 2 coats, I cut in and roll one wall at a time. This way by the time you are finished the first coat on the walls, the first wall is dry and ready to be painted again. I always cut in left to right and roll the wall right to left. When you are rolling, always keep a wet edge. Take your time and make sure that your cut in line where the ceiling meets the wall is straight and where the wall meets the returns of any door frames or window frames. When cutting in near the baseboards you can get a little wall paint on the baseboards.
10. After the 2nd coat is complete, you are almost finished. At this time I clean up the room. I will roll up my drop cloths and take all of my tools out of the room. Roll up the plastic and throw away. You have to be careful as there will be dust from sanding. Next I will either vacuum the rugs or Swiffer the hardwood floors. Shake out one drop and bring back in the room for the baseboards.
11. Make sure the baseboards are sanded with 120 grit sandpaper and dusted. If there are rugs in the room, you should use masking(tan) or blue painter's tape to tape the rugs and make sure no paint gets on the rugs. Now you are ready to paint the baseboards.
12. You can put back all of the faceplates, the hardware, registers, etc. When tightening the screws, make sure to leave them all facing vertical. This is a minor detail that many homeowners have complimented me on. It leaves a uniformed look. Remember if the registers were painted, you may want to paint them with the new color. Just be sure to sand the registers and dust prior to painting.
13. You can now clean all of your brushes, roller pans, rollers, etc.
14. By the time you finish cleaning your tools, the baseboards should be dry, and you can hang the pictures back on the wall and move all of the furniture back.
When you aren't sure if a color will work you can always buy samples at any local paint store. When painting a sample on the wall, I try to paint it right next to a door frame so you can see the wall color next to the trim. If you are still undecided, I recommend calling a designer to help you pick your colors.
Also, when you buy the paint, let the employee of the paint store know which room you are painting so you can get the right sheen of paint. Bathrooms and Kitchens need to painted with a product rated for water.
There is no right or wrong order of painting a room but this is the way that works for me. To finish a job, take a step back and admire the work you did is always a good feeling.
|Posted on April 15, 2013 at 4:42 PM||comments (12775)|
Let me start off by telling you how I got into the painting business.
My father has been painting (for himself) since the 1980's and when I was a youngster I used to accompany him on some of his jobs.
At first, I would only be allowed to sand the woodwork and help set up or clean up the jobsites. I didn't realize it then, but looking back, I'm glad my father had me master these tasks first. You have to start somewhere, right?
Fast forward to 1997 when I graduated High School. This is when I started working for my dad full time. He did mostly faux finishes so I gradually worked my way up to patching, caulking, painting woodwork, cutting in the basecoats, and rolling the basecoats and the ceilings. The years I spent working with him I learned the tricks of the trade and to never cut corners. He taught me how to work with your customers, not just for them.
So in 2009 I decided to start Scott's Painting Plus. My wife was pregnant with my first child (Scott Jr.) and I wanted to provide quality work at reasonable rates, something that is hard to come by in this economy.
The first year of business was a little slow but that is to be expected. It was nice my dad was always a phone call away if I had a question that I needed to ask. I went into business figuring it would take at least 3 years to build up a clientele to where I would start seeing repeat clients.
My second year of business was 25% better than the first year, and my 3rd year was 25% better than the second year. As a owner/operator type business it is hard to keep those percentages up year after year but I strive for excellence so that is what I am aiming for.
I focus on building lasting relationships with the people that I work with. The way that I do this is by providing superior quality, using the best products, having knowledge of the industry and different coatings, combined with focusing on customer service. I will do everything possible to exceed the clients expectations, make the project run smoothly, and keep the job within the budget.
I take a lot of pride in what I do and it shows in the finished product. For that reason, I have a lot of repeat customers and referral based business.
My specialties include but aren't limited to: interior painting, exterior painting, all painting related prep work, powerwashing, deck staining, deck cleaning, interior staining, popcorn ceiling removal, wallpaper removal, minor wood repair, drywall repair, plaster repair, cabinet refinishing, and more.
Here is some advice- You should always get 3 quotes for any job. If you receive a quote, and it is very low compared to the other two, there is probably a reason for it. Either the "painter" isn't insured, isn't paying taxes, or he is going to slop paint on your walls. Look to see how detailed the estimates are. Is the "painter" just emailing you with a number? That's not very professional... Ask for some photos of past jobs. Ask for proof of insurance. Ask for references. Ask for a business card. You can usually weed out the hacks pretty quickly by asking these questions. The professionals will proudly give you anything that you ask for and so will Scott's Painting Plus.
|Posted on April 1, 2013 at 6:46 PM||comments (1951)|
I would like to start off by saying that if you are going to tackle painting your own kitchen cabinets, it is NOT as easy as it seems. It also takes a little bit longer than the DIY shows make it seem.
Hiring a professional painter to refinish your cabinets will still save you a lot of money if you are thinking of replacing your cabinets.
Still with me? Ok. Let's get started. First you will need to make a list of all the materials you will need for the job.
1. Paint (oil-which is more durable but dries slow/latex-not as durable but dries quicker)(semi gloss, gloss, or if you are going to use Benjamin Moore Oil, I recommend Satin Impervo)
2. Primer (I would recommend using a bonding primer for good adhesion)
3. Krudkutter or TSP or any degreaser
4. Rags, Sponges
5. 2 buckets
6. Sandpaper (220 grit, 120 grit)
7. Tack cloth
8. Paint Brush (I use a 2 inch flat brush but use what you prefer)
9. 7 inch roller pan
10. 4 inch roller cage
11. Pack of 4 (4" roller covers- 1/4" nap)
12. Painters plastic (to cover counter)
13. 2x4's to lay the doors on when drying
Now Let's Get To Work
Step 1: cover your counter with painter's plastic and cover the floor with dropcloths.
Step 2: remove the hardware from all of the cabinets, marking each one, if necessary with tape. I like to use a left to right and top and bottom system. For example, T-1 would be the top left cabinet. After you remove all of the hardware, and it's marked, I recommend that you keep it in a ziplock bag until you are finished painting.
Step 3: remove the doors and hinges. Again marking everything if necessary.
Step 4: with your TSP or degreaser thoroughly clean all areas of the cabinet doors and boxes that are going to be painted with a sponge. With a damp rag, I like to wipe down the areas as soon as I degreased them.
Step 5: After your cabinets have dried, look for any imperfections. If you see any this is the time to use wood putty and fill the areas in. When the putty has dried, use the 120 grit sandpaper and sand down the areas going with the grain.
Step 6: Sanding produces dust and you have to get rid of it. I always carry a little pocket duster with me but if you have a dustbuster this will work just fine. Vacuum all loose dust and then use your tack cloth to get all of the fine dust off of all cabinets.
Step 7: Now you are ready to start priming. I always start with the outside of the doors. Start on the inside of the panel and work your way out. When you finish the first side of all of the doors, you can start on the boxes as the doors are drying. It is very important to let the primer dry completely.
Step 8: After you have finished priming all areas to be painted, grab the 220 grit sandpaper and sand all areas to make sure there are no brush strokes. When finished, grab the dustbuster or duster and vacuum the dust and once again use the tack cloth for the remaining dust.
Step 9: Apply 2nd coat of primer and repeat Step 8.
Step 10: Now you are finally ready for the topcoat. Just like you did with the primer, start on the doors and apply the first coat on the outside of the doors. When you finish you can move to the cabinet boxes. If you are using an oil topcoat it will take at least 24 hours to dry in between coats. For this reason, I like using an acrylic latex topcoat which will try in 4 to 6 hours. After the side of the doors is dry flip over and paint the other side. You will have to apply 2 coats of the topcoat but when you are finished you will be proud of the job you did and the money you saved.
|Posted on March 11, 2013 at 6:09 PM||comments (5705)|
If you ever find yourself painting a room with your significant other or your buddy, here are some words you can use to make it seem like you have been painting for years.
Flashing- this occurs when you patch an area of a wall or ceiling and don't prime it before topcoating. If you look down the wall when you are finished painting you will be able to see the patch flashing through.
"If we don't want to see flashing later, let's prime that patch."
Tooth- after sanding a wall, ceiling, door, etc. it will give the surface tooth. Meaning it will give the surface more grab for the paint that is going to be applied.
"I am going to sand this window frame and give it some tooth."
DropOut- this is when you are setting up a room for painting and you are laying the drop cloths down.
"The first thing we need to do is dropout."
Curtains- this happens when you are applying too much pressure on one side of a roller during application.
"I can see those curtains from over here. I think I should start rolling the wall."
So the next time you're painting with someone try these words out and see the reaction that you get. I will post some more shortly.
|Posted on February 28, 2013 at 6:15 PM||comments (1403)|
Here is a list of 10 questions that you should ask any contractor while receiving your quote.
1. Do you have a business card?
As soon as I walk in to an estimate and exchange greetings, I always hand out one of my business cards. You will now have the contractor's information and it shows professionalism on the contractors part.
2. Do you have any before and after photos of your work?
I keep a photo album in my van with before and after photos of previous work. I also have a bunch of photos on my phone from more recent jobs. I believe this also shows professionalism. If the contractor doesn't have pictures of previous work, than it would lead me to believe he doesn't take alot of pride in what he does. You also have to beware that he doesn't email you pictures(with the estimate) that are stock photos taken off the internet. If you would like to see before and after photos of my work, you can visit Scott's Painting Plus facebook page, or look up my business on Yelp, or visit my website.
3. Do you have a website?
This question can usually be answered by looking at the business card. If there isn't a website address on the card, I would still ask this question. You never know, the new cards could be in the mail. If he does have a website than you can check it out before hiring the contractor. If you would like to check out my website you can go to www.scottspaintingplus.com.
4. Do you have insurance?
This is a very important question. Most fly by night contractors won't be insured. If something were to happen to them while working in your home, they could sue you.
After hiring a contractor, always ask for a copy of their insurance. Scott's Painting Plus is insured by Erie Insurance.
5. Are you registered with the state as a Home Improvement Contractor?
It is illegal to perform work in someone's home, as a contractor in the state of PA, without being registered. The contractors that are registered are most likely legit businesses and are paying taxes. On the other hand, the fly by night contractors most likely aren't insured, registered, or paying taxes. When you receive a bid that is considerably low, it would throw up a red flag in my eyes that maybe the contractor isn't legit. Scott's Painting Plus HIC #PA097277.
6. Do you have references?
This is another important question to ask. Make sure you ask for their first and last name and their phone number. I recommend asking for three references and calling all of them. When you are speaking with the references, you should ask alot of questions. Were they on time? Did they leave the work area clean at the end of each day? Were they friendly, honest, and reliable?
7. How long have you been in your line of business?
This question will let you know their experience. You can ask some follow up questions like, "Who did you work for before starting your business?" This will also give you another reference that you can call. I established Scott's Painting Plus in the beginning of 2010 but my experience exceeds 15 years. I am a 2nd generation painter and apprenticed for my father's company since the mid 1990's.
8. Do you offer any discounts?
This question could be answered many different ways but it can't hurt trying to get a deal. I offer a Winter Discount that will end on March 15th. The work has to be booked by that date to receive the discount. For any work over $1500, there is a 10% discount on labor. For any work under $1500, there is a 5% discount on labor. I also offer discounts on entire exterior painting jobs. Call Scott today at (610)931-6707 and ask about the "Exterior Painting" deal.
9. What products do you use?
This question is mainly for painting and staining. I like to use Benjamin Moore products and Sherwin Williams products. If a contractor tells you that they like to use America's Finest, politely ask them to leave...lol.(it cost about $8/gallon)
10. How do you handle payment arrangements(do you take credit cards)?
Unfortunately, at this time, I do not take credit cards. I will ask for a deposit(usually 20% to cover the materials) so your project can be scheduled. I schedule jobs by first come first served. After the deposit, depending on the size of the job, it is either remaining balance paid upon completion of job or 2 payments(1 half way through the job and the other upon completion).
Usually you will be able to tell from the first impression if the contractor is the right one for your job. If you get the answers you are looking for to the questions above, you will be proud of the end result.
|Posted on February 24, 2013 at 6:04 PM||comments (1741)|
OIL BASED PAINTS
As we move into a new era of water based, acrylic, and hybrid(waterborne alkyd technology) paints, the oil based paints of yesteryear are not being used as often. In fact, some places don't sell oil based paints anymore for environmental reasons.
The hybrid paints give the finish of an oil based paint but cleans up with soap and water opposed to paint thinner or mineral spirits.
Oil based paints, used mostly on woodwork, leaves a better and more durable finish then a latex(water based)paint and will leave a smoother finish if painted correctly. If you are going to paint your woodwork, and the existing trim is an oil based paint, I recommend using an oil based paint again. The reasons being if you wanted to switch to a latex, you would need to prime all woodwork first with either a latex or oil based primer. Then proceed to apply the latex paint. I feel that an oil based finish coat is more durable, and with prepping the existing trim thoroughly and properly, you will get a better result.
A negative about using an oil based product is that it will usually take 24 hours to dry between coats. Another thing you will have to watch for if you are using a (white) oil based paint, is that over time it will tend to turn a yellowish color.
Here is a photo of a job I just completed where I painted all of the woodwork. The existing woodwork was oil based and turning a yellow color. Sometimes it is hard to notice so I took a picture to show the difference after painting the wainscoting and leaving the door unpainted. The paint I used was Benjamin Moore's Satin Impervo White Oil Based Paint.
Here are a few after photos of the completed job.
As you can see there is a smooth finish on these bifold doors.
Scott's Painting Plus is experienced in all facets of painting. I recommend calling a professional if you have a job that involves oil based paints.
Call Scott at (610)931-6707 or email at
I always recommend hiring a painting company for all of your painting needs but if you aren't at a point where you are able to hire a painter, please read my other blogs that show tips on doing your own painting.
|Posted on February 13, 2013 at 6:53 PM||comments (7011)|
Hiring a Painter
Anyone can paint right? Wrong!!
If you try to paint a room yourself, and it doesn't go as planned, it will cost more to fix the mistakes than it would have, if you hired a pro in the first place.
You also have to watch out for the "so called" professional painters that shouldn't be painting. Anyone can say they are a professional painter but not everyone can produce quality work.
How can you tell just by meeting a painter if they are good at what they do?
The first thing you can do is ask him for photos of previous work. This doesn't always work as he/she can borrow photos or download pictures off of the internet.
Another option, which I believe is the best, would be to ask for at least 3 references. Make sure you ask for the first and last name of the references, just in case they are relatives, friends, etc. posing as references. This way you can google them before calling. I suggest that you call all three references before hiring someone.
If you are satisfied with option 1 and option 2, you can ask for their insurance information. If the painter, in question, is just trying to make some extra cash, most likely he won't be insured.
Also ask for his Home Improvement Contractor #. Pennsylvania now mandates that all trade related businesses register with the state prior to performing any work in someone's house.
After you receive all of the information listed above, this still doesn't mean you should hire the painter.
It all comes down to the price, right?
When you receive the quote, look for how detailed and specific the job description is. This will show you how the job will be done, what he will be doing, and if it is up to the standards that you set.
If you receive a quote to paint a room and the total cost is $99, I would be very skeptical as to how someone could do it for that price. This is a typical price for someone that will upsell you on every little extra thing that wasn't in the original quote. Oh, you need the walls patched too? That will be an additional $....... Be wary of low ball quotes. Personally, when I send a quote, that is the price it is going to be to complete the work that is stated in the quote. There are no hidden fees or upselling being done at Scott's Painting Plus.
If the price is too good to be true, it probably is. Or the one sending the quote isn't qualified. In this era where everyone thinks they can be a professional house painter, be careful and do your homework before hiring someone to paint your home. I have received many calls where I was asked to fix previous painter's shoddy work.
Call Scott's Painting Plus today at (610)931-6707 for your, no obligation, FREE ESTIMATE!! I have many reputable references, my Home Improvement Contractor # is PA097277, I'm fully insured, and you can check my website at www.scottspaintingplus.com to check out before and after photos of my work.
Thank you for reading. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
|Posted on February 6, 2013 at 7:30 PM||comments (1945)|
These are a few tips for a Do-It-Yourselfer who wants to tackle their own painting project. I always recommend hiring a professional Painting Contractor if you want professional results. On the other hand, I realize that some homeowners like doing the work themselves or simply can't afford it. This list will help you with your painting project.
1. How can you tell if your trim(woodwork/doors, baseboards, etc.) was painted with an oil based paint or a water based(latex) paint?
This is very important if you are planning on repainting your trim and don't know what the previous Painting Contractor used for paint. If it was painted with an oil based paint, I would repaint with an oil based paint. If it was painted with a latex paint, I would stick with a latex. If it was painted with an oil and you would like to switch to a latex paint, I recommend applying a coat of oil based primer before applying the latex paint.
Now how do you determine what it was painted with?
Most Painting Contractors can tell just by looking at it. Another way would be to use a piece of 120 grit sandpaper and sand a small section of the woodwork. After sanding, wipe your hand over the section. If there is dust on your hand than it is an oil based paint. No dust=latex paint.
2. While we are on the subject of painting trim, no matter what was used to paint the trim before (oil or latex), you must sand all trim prior to repainting. I use a piece of 120 grit sandpaper and I keep a duster with me to dust as I sand. For a duster you can use an old paint brush, a dust brush, or even a damp rag.
Sanding prior to painting will help smooth the trim but more importantly it will give the new paint better adhesion to the existing paint and a longer lasting paint job.
3. What sheens of paint should you use in which room(s) when doing an interior painting job?
The answer to this question is mostly a matter of taste. As the saying goes, "Beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder." I always give a client some suggestions but ultimately the client is the one that will be living in the home and should make the final decision.
With that being said, I can tell you what sheens I use for most rooms.
I will use a flat paint on ceilings. 90% of the time I will use a semi gloss on all trim. For walls in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms (any room where there is moisture), etc. I will use an eggshell paint for the fact that it is washable and won't be damaged by the water. For walls in Living rooms, Dining rooms, Bedrooms, etc. I use flats, satins, eggshells, or low lustres. As I said earlier, since you will be the one looking at the walls, this would be a decision for you to make. You can research each sheen and pick one that is most suitable for the room.
4. Another tip for interior painting would be to remove all faceplates, nails, screws, hardware, etc. before applying any paint. Painting around these
areas with a brush you could potentially get paint on them. Also when you remove everything off of the wall you can use a roller instead of a brush around these areas. It will be a more uniform job in the end.
Visit www.scottspaintingplus.com for more painting tips or to get a free quote from a Painting Contractor.
This is a photo of an Interior Painting job I did in Wayne, Pa.
This is another photo of the Interior Painting in Wayne.
This is another angle of the same Interior Painting job.
|Posted on January 29, 2013 at 6:06 PM||comments (2535)|
I would like to start off by saying this isn't how every Painting Contractor paints a room. This is the system that I use and the way I recommend using.
I will be explaining how to set up for painting, the prep work involved, the painting, and the cleanup. This order is the same if you are painting a bedroom, a bathroom, a living room, or any other room in your home.
Remove all pictures, window treatments/hardware, electrical face plates, etc. off of the walls. Make sure you mark the holes that will need to be filled and the ones that will be reused. I usually find a place in another room for these items.
Arrange the furniture in the room so that there is enough room for a ladder between the wall and the furniture. You will also need to make sure you can reach the ceiling fan or the light in the center of the ceiling if there is one.
Use painter's plastic and cover all of the furniture. You can use blue painter's tape to secure the plastic.
Lay drop cloths down throughout the room. It is important to make sure that every area is covered.
Go around the room and fill all holes in the ceiling and walls with joint compound(there are many different kinds of filler that can be used but I like the ready mixed blue lid joint compound). At this time I will put a fan on and direct it at the patches to speed up the drying time. After the patches are dry, check the patches to make sure that they are at least flush with the surface. Joint compound shrinks so you may have to patch some areas twice.
With a piece of 120 grit sandpaper, go around and sand all of the patches so that they are flush to the surface and smooth. After sanding, I will dust the patches while I am there. Also while you have the sandpaper out, go around and lightly sand all of the woodwork in the room and dust afterwards.
Walk around the room and caulk any cracks that weren't patched. These are usually where the woodwork meets the ceiling or the wall.
Now you are ready to start painting. Pour all but about 1 inch of a gallon of the ceiling paint into a roller pan. With your roller, roll over all of the ceiling patches with the ceiling paint. While this is drying, I will go around and cut in the ceiling. Don't worry about getting the ceiling paint onto the wall but you will have to watch you don't put it on so thick that there are paint drips. Once the patches are dry, you are ready to start rolling. Start in one corner and work in an area of about 6' x 6'. Make sure you always keep a wet edge and work towards the closest wall. When the first coat is dry, repeat the cutting in and rolling part.
This is the step that some painters will start painting the walls but I believe you will get a better finished product if you start painting the standing trim. By standing trim I mean all of the woodwork except the baseboards. The reason for painting this next is because of the returns on the door and window frames. The return is the thin area where the frame meets the wall. It is easier to paint a straight line with the wall paint into the return than trying to paint a straight line on the return after the wall is painted. When painting the standing trim don't worry about getting the paint onto the wall but again you have to be careful of paint drips or runs. After the first coat is dry then you can paint the second coat.
Now you are ready to start painting the walls. Pour the wall paint into a roller pan leaving about an inch in the gallon pot. Roll over the patches and while they are drying you can start cutting in the walls. I cut in 1 wall and then roll it. I go to the next wall and cut it in and then roll it. This way, if you have a fan to speed up the drying time, you can fan the wall that was just painted as you are painting the next wall. By the time you get back to where you started you can just keep going and apply the 2nd coat.
Before I paint the baseboards, I roll up all of the drop cloths and the plastic. Then I will vacuum the room. Before putting the furniture back, I will apply the 1st coat to the baseboards. While the first coat is drying, I will hang all pictures, window treatments, put back all face plates, take the drop cloths outside and shake them out, and clean up the rest of the room. This will give the first coat time to dry. When the first coat is dry then you can apply the 2nd coat. When finished you can move all furniture back to its original spot, vacuum one last time, and you will be done.
Like I said, there are different ways to paint a room, this is the system that works for me and essentially works for my clients.
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